After a breathtaking show atop the illustrious Boijmans Depot in 2023, Tess van Zalinge returns to Amsterdam Fashion Week with ‘momentum,’ her most ambitious collection to date. Building on the designs she previously showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week, this collection marks a significant milestone in her career, not only in scale but in the depth of its creative and sustainable vision.
Set against a backdrop that perfectly complemented the collection’s theme of movement and transformation, van Zalinge directed attendees towards an intimate backstage setting—a deliberate decision to share the environment where last touch-ups were being done. The crowd walsed between hallways separated by clothing racks, whilst models were being laced up and collars were being fixed. This unconventional entrance provided a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship behind the collection, revealing the layers, complexity, and dedication that go into every piece. Van Zalinge continued building on her collection after Copenhagen Fashion Week, adding a new layer of colour, material and craftsmanship, to ultimately circulate towards the finished product during her show at Amsterdam Fashion Week.
Throughout the collection, Tess explored themes of movement, both literal and metaphorical, using her designs to evoke a sense of progression and transformation. The structured silhouettes, intricate detailing, and bold use of colours all contributed to a collection that was as dynamic as it was cohesive. Presented as a series of duo-looks, each look was meticulously crafted from deconstructed and upcycled materials, using everything from dead-stock fabrics to repurposed zippers.
Adding to the visual intrigue were pieces like an ochre-coloured lapel coat with visible stitching, showcasing Tess’s attention to detail and craftsmanship and overcoats with large cutouts in mesh layers revealing vibrant colours beneath. Beautiful corset tops, laced from the side, were masterfully intertwined with dress shirts and mesh panels, blending structure with softness in a way that was both powerful and elegant.
The pops of ochre returned in a structural romper, with exaggerated shapes around the hips. Dresses made from formal wear featured exaggerated hips with added ruching and hip pads in blue and black. Her craftsmanship was evident in every piece, particularly in the beautifully tailored corset dresses that anchored the collection, and embodied the delicate balance between stillness and movement in a tangible, transformative experience.
The harmonious interplay between sturdy, tailored elements and more fluid, ethereal designs created a narrative that spoke to both men and women, as this collection was van Zalinge’s first introduction to men’s couture. Supported by Alvanon’s technological expertise, this added a fresh dimension to her work. Additionally, the glass bags, developed in collaboration with Sommer Dutch Glass Art, were striking examples of how art and fashion can intersect to create something truly unique.
Another standout partnership was with the sustainable luggage brand NORTVI. Together, they deconstructed returned suitcases and transformed them into couture designs, showcasing the potential of upcycling unconventional materials.
With ‘momentum,’ Tess van Zalinge has not only expanded her creative repertoire but has also set a new standard for sustainable fashion. As the final look made its way down the runway, it was clear that Tess’s journey is one of constant evolution, and ‘momentum’ is just the beginning of what promises to be an even more remarkable future.
Cover image by Olivia Witmond via YOUNG / The Agency
Runway images by Merel Daantje via YOUNG / The Agency
