This past week, Paris Haute Couture Week 2025 set the stage for a bold reimagining of couture, with Dutch designers once again proving that their influence on the international fashion scene remains unparalleled. From Peet Dullaert’s athletic-inspired elegance to Viktor & Rolf’s AI-infused nostalgia and Ronald van der Kemp’s take on Thailand’s rich textile heritage, the Netherlands’ presence in Paris was nothing short of extraordinary. Meanwhile, Iris van Herpen made headlines with her strategic shift away from the traditional fashion calendar. Here’s how these designers left their mark on this season’s couture landscape.
Peet Dullaert
For his third official couture collection, Peet Dullaert challenged the very notion of what couture is with a radical exploration of handcrafted athleticwear. Biker shorts, zip jackets, and leotards—rendered in neutral, flesh-toned hues and adorned with delicate embellishments—served as the foundation for a collection that fused movement, strength, and intricate craftsmanship. Layered with beaded skirts and draped constructions, Dullaert’s designs twisted and wrapped around the body, redefining volume from the inside out. Set against the stripped-down space of L’Institut Néerlandais, the show unfolded to the rhythm of Dylan Thomas’ Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night, a poetic reflection of Dullaert’s fearless approach. From lace-accented athletic gowns to Grecian-inspired draped velvet, the collection reinforced his commitment to innovation, proving that couture is about craft—not just textiles.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf once again turned tradition on its head, drawing inspiration from the golden age of couture while injecting a hint of digital experimentation. Their Spring/Summer 2025 collection reimagined a timeless uniform—a beige trench, a white shirt, and blue trousers—through 24 wildly diverse iterations. Minimal yet baroque, structured yet whimsical, the collection showcased the designers’ mastery of duality, playing with Viktor & Rolf’s signature ruffles and bows in new, unexpected ways. Crafted entirely from silk gazar sourced from the esteemed Ruffo Coli, the collection nodded to the duo’s 1999 Blacklight collection, honouring the legacy of couture craftsmanship while embracing the digital age. The AI-generated show narration added an extra layer of intrigue, turning each look into a “couture prompt”. Equally intriguing was the appearance of a porcelain doll wearing its own floor length couture gown; it wouldn’t be a Viktor & Rolf show without a whiff of absurdity. Custom Christian Louboutin satin heels and vintage jewellery from Droomfabriek Amsterdam completed the looks, further cementing Viktor & Rolf’s place at the intersection of heritage and the future.
Ronald van der Kemp
A staple on the couture calendar since 2016, Ronald van der Kemp once again showcased his dedication to sustainability and exquisite craftsmanship with his Spring/Summer 2025 ‘garderobe’—a conscious departure from the traditional notion of a collection. “If you think of a wardrobe, you gather pieces that fit your personality. If we all did that, we’d become better people,” Van der Kemp notably commented after the show.
Set in the Atelier Néerlandais at the Hôtel d’Avaray, the show was a vibrant homage to Thailand’s rich textile heritage. Discovering a treasure trove of Thai fabrics, Van der Kemp wove together a collection bursting with luminous hues—emerald green, jungle grass, sunset gold, and lotus pink—mixed in unexpected ways. A dandelion yellow silk velvet opera coat with intricate embroidery followed a black beaded minidress with wing-like sleeves, a corset gown adorned with serpents slithering up the bodice, and a draped silk gown reminiscent of the traditional Chakri silhouette. Van der Kemp paid subtle tribute to Thailand’s architectural ornamentation through sculptural silhouettes, from sky-sweeping shoulders to quilted tusk accents. Incorporating his signature upcycling approach, the designer transformed found textiles into an eclectic mix of bold colours, intricate patchwork, voluminous skirts, and sharply tailored blazers.
Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen’s absence from the official couture calendar this season was a deliberate move towards deeper innovation and sustainability. Announcing that she will now present only once per year, the Dutch designer is dedicating more time to research and development, particularly in groundbreaking techniques like 4D printing and material innovation. By reducing her show frequency, she aims to push the boundaries of fashion-tech synergy, crafting pieces that not only redefine couture but also reduce its ecological footprint.
