We are more than proud to present the 10 finalists of Lichting 2022. Before their debut to the public on the 2nd of September, AFW sat down with each participant to talk about their collection and their plans for the upcoming Lichting show. This week we would like to introduce you to Utrecht School of the Arts graduate Rowen Lammers!
How did the concept behind your graduation collection come to being?
We live in a time where togetherness, cultural appropriation and giving back to your community are big topics. This made me ask myself questions about my own culture and how I can contribute to it, but also how I can give back to it.
I wanted to create a collection with a cultural and visual meaning. The deprived neighbourhood, the city and its surroundings (Waterkwartier, Nijmegen) in which I grew up have always influenced my work and design practice. This is how the concept “Loveletter to my culture” came about. It’s an ode to the working-class culture.
How would you describe your signature as a designer? How does this reflect in your collection?
During our first meeting, my teacher called me a minimalist “gabber”, and I could definitely relate to her words. I’m always on the look for the line between minimalism and terror. For me, that boundary lies between the nostalgic image of the past and the tranquillity of modernism. I try to filter the hysteria of my neighbourhood within my design profession until a certain peace and calmness arises. I am also always looking for connections between the garments from working-class culture and ways to integrate them into my work, through fabric choices but especially in the silhouette.
On July 29th, you were introduced to the Lichting jury for the first time. How did you experience this moment? What feedback do you take with you to your presentation during AFW?
The run-up to a moment like this is quite big and comes with a lot of preparations and stress. When I read that Gijsje Ribbens (Creative Director and Stylist) of Kassl Editions was on the jury panel, the nerves set in. I am a big fan of the brand. The jury motivated me to stay close to myself. The fact that you get the opportunity to show your work to these big names is a great honour!
Which piece from the collection are you most proud of? Why?
The blue two-piece outfit stands out to me as its silhouette reflects a distinctive and recognizable uniform of the neighbourhood. With this outfit I was mainly inspired by the female characters from the community. The two-piece is a love letter to the women from the neighbourhood I grew up with, who continue to move and inspire.
What would be the ideal way to present your collection to the public in September? Can you already say something about what you currently have in mind?
After studying fashion for eight years, I think a runway show provides a nice closure to an era, but also a nice start of a new chapter in my life. Before, I have almost always expressed my work through film and photography. Therefore, I now want to physically acquaint the public with my designs. Not only by showing how the designs move on a catwalk, but also showing how I make my vision come to life.
