From having an administrative job in Denmark, to becoming a household name in the Dutch fashion industry; Claes Iversen came a very long way. This year marks his debut on the Amsterdam Fashion Week schedule. With the first look as abundant as the last, Claes served the ever so diverse crowd an absolute feast.
From couture to bridal and everything in between, Claes seems to be one of those designers that does it for the love of the craft. His Couture 2022 ‘Play’ collection followed the fullness of his design character; maximalist, quirky yet chic and by all means otherworldly. The show embodied references to the eclectic styles of the seventies including chevron stripes, flower prints and fringe detailing. A head-to-toe ensemble with Art Deco print in hues of blue, purple and green contains a cropped box-shaped jacked and is finished off with sparkling detailing and lilac faux-fur rims. White ruffly cuffs, vinyl gloves and velvet bowties that are directly sewed to the clothes reflect the designer’s understanding of the necessity of accessories as a means to elevate a look, whether slightly on the gimmicky side or to subtly contrast the outfit as a whole. The clever humour reminiscent of Claes’ days as an intern at Viktor&Rolf was undeniably apparent in this collection. His designs however certainly don’t lack sophistication. A floor-length off-the-shoulder gown in a bold red colour and a flower-embroidered dress with long bell sleeves adhere to the designer’s status as a well-respected couture house. Hints of space-age galore became evident by a yellow wet-look dress with cut-out collar and all-over shimmering studs and a glossy deep purple dress with exaggerated pleats across one shoulder. Whether the designer had chosen a piece the resistance or not, each look could’ve been the closing act to this lavish ensemble of characters. Our first choice however, goes to the feathered dress with glitter fringe detailing pink and orange ombre hues, and a neckline that reaches just above the waist.
“I gave myself the freedom to have fun designing the collection without approaching all outfits too much as a whole. That’s why almost all fabrics and prints only appear once. In the end, the 19 looks gradually came together as one collection.” – Claes Iversen
