Past, Present, Future: Guillaume Philibert x River Moojen and Jannah Erdtracht

In June, Amsterdam Fashion Week will make history with a runway on the A10 Ring — the first fashion show ever to take place on a Dutch highway. As part of this citywide celebration of Amsterdam’s 750th anniversary, three established designers have been invited to coach emerging talents toward a collective 60-look show. Among them: Guillaume Philibert, founder of Filling Pieces. Today we introduce his chosen emerging talents whose work embody the future of fashion in Amsterdam: River Moojen and Jannah Erdtracht.

While Guillaume’s name is already deeply embedded in the Dutch fashion landscape, his vision has always extended beyond his own brand. At Filling Pieces, he’s made space for new creatives to grow, experiment, and find their voice. “Filling Pieces has always been a breeding ground,” he says. “A place where people learn, evolve, and then spread their wings. Both River and Jannah have been part of that world — I know their vision, their grit, and their individuality. I can vouch for them with my whole chest.”

Their shared project for the Ring show taps into both personal and collective narratives. With Levi’s® repurposed denim inventory as a central material, sustainability, identity, and cultural memory become recurring themes approached from vastly different angles by each talent.

As designers shaping the future of Amsterdam’s fashion landscape, how do you see your responsibility in preserving its cultural identity while pushing for innovation?
River: “I really do feel that responsibility. I think the world is ready to see that Amsterdam is more than just weed, sex work, and party culture. The people are cool, it’s the most multicultural place in Europe, and there’s an incredible amount of talent. Whether born here or having moved here, people are doing amazing things. I think we have an obligation as creatives to push that narrative. A lot of designers eventually feel like they’ve outgrown Amsterdam and need to move to Paris, London, or New York, but there’s still so much left to explore and uncover here.”

Jannah: “Amsterdam has such a rich cultural identity, and you really notice it in everyday life. I’m not originally from here and chose Amsterdam as my home because of its diversity and creative scene. What inspires me most about Amsterdam are the people, the beautiful architecture and strong bond to art.  As a designer, you automatically translate that into your work. I do feel a responsibility to preserve and celebrate that culture whilst also bringing in new ideas.”

You’re both working with Levi’s® repurposed denim inventory. How have you approached and integrated this material, and how has it influenced the direction of your designs?
Jannah: “I haven’t worked with denim much before, but my project is about using sustainable materials so I was up for the challenge. It’s important to invest in durable materials, and it’s amazing that we got the opportunity to use Levi’s® repurposed inventory to make our collections more sustainable. I fell in love with this vintage Levi’s® trucker jacket from the 1950’s made from raw denim. The shape and durability really stuck with me and so part of my collection pays homage to that piece.”

Guillaume has been your coach throughout this process. How do you know him? And how has he helped you refine your vision?
Jannah: “I’ve worked with Guillaume every day at Filling Pieces for two and a half years, and I’ve learned a lot from how he works and thinks. He gives us room to follow our own process and really trusts our intuition, but he’s always available to support us and brainstorm together.”

River: “I’ve known him since I was 15, back when Filling Pieces had just started. I was working in a store that sold the brand, and later on I worked in the official store. That’s where our bond really started. Since then, we’ve been friends and colleagues. He’s been super supportive. He believes in us, helps where needed, like sourcing fabrics, but always makes sure we’re steering our own ship.”

Jannah, you chose something as universal as doing laundry as the foundation for your collection. What made this everyday ritual the right vessel to explore themes of sustainability and emotional connection to clothing?
Jannah: “My collection is about raising awareness around how we value clothing. With my background in garment development, I understand how much effort and love goes into making each piece and how important proper care is. I wanted to tell a story that everyone can relate to. It’s a playful approach, but it touches on a serious issue.”

“Laundry Day” plays with ideas of folding, knotting, undressing, and fabric contrasts — all drawn from the visual language of laundering. How did you approach turning such everyday, often invisible gestures into design language?
Jannah: “My process is very hands-on, with lots of trial and error. I drape on mannequins or myself and keep adjusting until something visually clicks. That worked perfectly for this theme. I recreated laundry moments: folding, layering, untangling knotted garments, and photographed them to translate those gestures into shapes. Some references are subtle, others more literal. For example, instead of a logo, I used embroidered washing symbols as care instructions. There are also hidden messages sewn inside to remind people, in a fun way, to treat their clothes with care.”

River, your collection transforms Amsterdam’s icons — both its heritage and underground culture — into wearable symbols. How did you ensure that these symbols go beyond aesthetics and truly capture the essence of the city?
River: “I really wanted to show how cool Amsterdam is and what’s really happening here. Not just the buildings or the famous names, but the people who actually live here. That’s where I draw most of my inspiration from. The city gives me strength. No matter what, there’s always something to be proud of when you’re from here. I was inspired by traditional dress too, working with leather and denim, pulling from different eras but I didn’t want it to feel like a costume party. People here have worn everything from fishing nets to tailored suits. In that way, the sky’s the limit. But I didn’t want to stop at aesthetics, I wanted the collection to have layers.”

The idea of representation is central to your collection. In a city as layered and shifting as Amsterdam, how do you decide which elements to elevate, and which stories to tell through fashion?
River: “Fortunately, I have friends around me who also have the same connection with Amsterdam and help me in the design process. From their world and mine, we have made choices about which symbols are translated into this collection. I can’t say too much about the final product just yet, but it will definitely be an homage to Amsterdam.”

Show on the Ring
In a few weeks, their collections will take to the A10 in what’s set to be a landmark moment for Dutch fashion. For all three, it’s an opportunity to rethink not just what fashion looks like, but where it belongs.

“This show is about showing the future and showing that it’s already here,” Guillaume says. “These two don’t need to go to Paris or London to be seen. We have the talent right here. It’s time we act like it.”

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