Denzel Veerkamp’s highly anticipated debut at Amsterdam Fashion Week unfolded as a powerful homage to Afro-Surinamese culture, leaving an indelible mark on the hearts of those in attendance. The show, held at Studio Wieman in Amsterdam-Noord, was a vibrant and evocative presentation that seamlessly wove together fashion, music, and cultural storytelling.
Titled “Abrasei,” meaning “on the other side” or “overseas,” Veerkamp’s collection was a conceptual journey through the layers of (Afro-) Surinamese culture. The designer’s first visit to Suriname earlier in 2024 deeply influenced his collection, serving as both a personal exploration and a tribute to his bi-cultural heritage. With a focus on the complexities and trans-generational dynamics of the Surinamese Diaspora, Veerkamp uses fashion as a medium to bridge the historical and cultural connections between Suriname and the Netherlands.
The show opened with the haunting melodies of a Surinamese flute player, setting the tone for a performance that was as much about movement and music as it was about fashion. Instead of a stiff entrance where everyone remains silent, the crowd clapped along and danced in their seat. The choreography, infused with performance energy, highlighted the symbiotic relationship between the garments and the bodies they adorned. The collection, consisting of thirty meticulously crafted looks, drew inspiration from Caribbean couture, fotosei, and themes of (self-) defence, protection, and dignity. Each piece a testament to Veerkamp’s commitment to honouring and preserving traditional Surinamese dress whilst imbuing it with a contemporary, Afro-futuristic twist. The logo printed on blue and red boiler suits, the recognisable three crosses of Amsterdam, gave new meaning to the collection, as the middle cross was replaced by a star, symbolising Denzel’s bi-cultural background. It was beautiful to see how seamlessly the designer had woven his past and present together into one cohesive collection.
A standout feature of the collection was Veerkamp’s innovative use of upcycled materials. Every piece was transformed, leaving traces from its previous use only as a form of appreciation for its past, but nevertheless with a renewed purpose. An olive velvet blazer was turned upside down and made into a skirt, the sleeves rolled up adding to the dynamic shape of the garment. The collection, physically and spiritually cleansed through a traditional wassi, were revitalised, demonstrating the transformative power of reuse. This approach not only highlighted the beauty of discarded materials but also aligned with the designer’s vision of creating historically-conscious fashion that resonates with modern-day challenges linked to Suriname’s colonial past.
The scenography of the show was equally captivating, with floral arrangements and a vintage Mercedes serving as symbolic backdrops that enriched the narrative. As the show progressed, the music transitioned into the vibrant sounds of a brass band, leading to a grand finale that celebrated the resilience and joy of the Surinamese spirit. Through the speakers the crowd heard an ode to Suriname, the words “a wonderland of colour” made everyone get up from their seat.
In his debut, Denzel Veerkamp not only showcased his extraordinary talent as a designer but also positioned himself as a vital voice in the ongoing conversation about cultural identity, heritage, and the future of fashion.
Runway images by Olivia Witmond via YOUNG / The Agency
Cover image by Peter Stigter
