For its runway debut, Studio NK presented The Passage, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection by Dutch couturier Neslihan Kiyak. Rooted in Kiyak’s Dutch and Turkish heritage, and shaped by the people, places and experiences that have marked her journey, the collection explored the passage between heritage and identity through polished silhouettes, romantic details and carefully considered proportions.
On the runway, The Passage unfolded in a palette of ecru, blush, white and turquoise, with lace, silk and sequins adding texture and movement. An all-over lace ensemble opened the collection with a blouse tucked into a gathered, structured skirt, its centre cut open into layered, petal-like sections. Lace socks pulled over pumps brought a playful detail to the otherwise refined look.
Florals emerged as a recurring motif, moving from delicate embellishment to statement-making proportions. Small turquoise sequin flowers scattered across a high-neck gown shimmered alongside its open back, while oversized fabric earrings bloomed around the face, their sculptural petals turning a familiar floral reference into something almost fantastical.
Volume soon took centre stage. A sculptural white jacket was defined by generous proportions and an architectural shawl collar, while a lightweight bubble-hem jacket echoed the mermaid-cut skirt beneath it. Elsewhere, beautifully tailored suits brought a sharper edge to the collection, set against softer, fluid silhouettes and long draped dresses that revealed open backs and elongated trains.
As the collection moved towards evening, the silhouettes became increasingly dramatic. A one-shoulder mini dress combined an intricate circular pattern with a long train cascading from the shoulder, while a turquoise silk blouse was tucked into a high-waisted ruffled skirt, bringing colour and volume together in one polished look. Shorter, sculpted shapes contrasted with sweeping trains, giving the collection’s evening looks a distinctly theatrical quality.
Sequins added movement of their own, most notably in a white sequin skirt whose surface caught the light and whose delicate sound could be heard as it travelled down the runway. Long halter gowns followed, their fluid columns gathered at the neck and falling into elongated trains, balancing dramatic silhouettes with open backs and softly draped necklines.
Throughout The Passage, Kiyak worked within a language of classic glamour while introducing unexpected details through proportion, texture and embellishment. The collection reflects the idea that transformation can happen quietly: through the clothes we inherit, the identities we carry and the ways we choose to reinterpret them.
For Studio NK, The Passage marks a new chapter for the house itself. With its first runway presentation, Kiyak brought her vision, shaped by heritage, craftsmanship and a distinctly feminine sense of elegance, to the Amsterdam Fashion Week runway for the first time.